It’s becoming hard to keep count of how many shows have been opening this season with designers’ black thoughts. Yes, black is back, but its possibilities are being recast in many differently textured ways—and hardly any of it looks goth, sharply minimalist, aggressively dominatrix-like, or ominously apocalyptic. And even when it involves leather as it does (quelle surprise!) atValentino, there’s the potential for something chic and young to come out of it. It’s another step in the modernization of the label Pierpaolo Piccioli andMaria Grazia Chiuri are finessing; that fine balance between carrying a heritage and running with an instinct for where fashion is heading now.
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